Surfing and the Search for "Realness" – Why Do Passions Feel More Alive?

There’s something about surfing that cuts through the fog of everyday life. Paddling out, catching a wave, that split-second balance between control and chaos it all feels more real than the usual routine. It’s not just the adrenaline; it’s like time sharpens into focus, and everything else fades.

I’ve noticed this with music too. When I’m deep in composing, hours vanish, but in a way that feels fuller than most of my “productive” days. It’s almost like these passions tap into something existential, a kind of presence that ordinary life rarely matches.

Does anyone else get this with their hobbies or sports? Is it the flow state, the physicality, or something deeper? I’d love to hear how others make sense of that intensity why certain activities just click into place while the rest of life can feel like background noise.